Saturday, March 30, 2013

Turkey Trotting in Istanbul

Welp, I've been back from Turkey for two weeks now and haven't found the time to tackle this blog post till now. Actually I don't have that much time so it's probably going to be more brief than I would like. But my week in Turkey was phenomenal so I have to share about it! It all started out with an early morning and a flight from Tel Aviv to Istanbul, on which I sat next to the sweetest lady who is a doctor from India that I adored and loved talking with. At the airport, we met our tour guide Negip who we all came to absolutely love during the trip. We got our first glimpses of Istanbul from the windows of our rockstar tour bus and it was PACKED with people! It turns out Istanbul has 14 million people living in it, who knew it was so huge?! Anyways, Istanbul is a really cool city with mosques everywhere, beautiful views of the Mediterranean, and the half of the city I stayed at is in Europe, so now I've been to Europe! Dinner that night was quite the process- dinner in this country is reeeally dragged out haha apparently it was the short version but it took like 2 hours for them to serve us all the parts of our meal. Both before and after dinner there was free time where I explored the city with some friends. We visited a cool mosque across the street from our hotel, experienced the first of many beautiful sunsets on the trip, found a bazaar, and roamed the empty streets at night.
Mosque in Istanbul
Istanbul
Day 2 was on foot where we saw cool sites of Istanbul- I just absolutely loved this city! The Blue Mosque was definitely a highlight but so was Topkapi Palace and the Basilica Cistern. Oh and the famous Grand Bazaar! And then of course the cruise on the Bosphorus was phenomenal too, I can't pick a favorite part of the day!
Blue Mosque
Blue Mosque
Blue Mosque
Blue Mosque- the interior is SO intricate and beautiful. It's mostly blue on the inside which is why it's nicknamed the Blue Mosque (its real name is Sultan Ahmed Mosque). Can you believe this was all made in just 7 years in the early 1600's? And it is still in use as a mosque today.
Blue Mosque
Topkapi Palace- this place is now a big museum but was previously a palace and is just covered with beautiful tiles like these! We also saw a ton of other cool things in it like old swords, huge diamonds, a hair from Muhammad's mustache (strange), and lots of beautiful old royal treasures.
Basilica Cistern- this is the largest of hundreds of ancient cisterns under Istanbul. Columns were reused from previous structures in order to build it, which is why some of them are really intricate.
Basilica Cistern- this is Medusa's head, reused to support a column in the making of this cistern. We were all falling over as this picture was taken haha.
Grand Bazaar! Unfortunately we only had an hour here, which was just overwhelming because it is so huge! Thousands of merchants and little shops make this place a maze and there are beautiful ceramics everywhere like these.
European side of Istanbul from our cruise on the Bosphorus

Bosphorus cruise- this cruise was beautiful and a perfect ending to the day. We saw a lot of the city from the boat as we got to relax and take it all in, while watching a beautiful sunset.
This sums up the first two days of the trip and the majority of the things we did in Istanbul (we saw the Hagia Sophia at the end of the trip, don't worry I'll get to that!). It's late and I have an early morning tomorrow, but hey I'm just happy I got this far on my blog post! I'll post this now and do another blog post tomorrow about the rest of the Turkey trip and include some gorgeous pictures of the Mediterranean, I promise!

Sunday, March 24, 2013

Palm Sunday

Today was Palm Sunday and it was possibly one of the best days of the semester in my opinion. However, I have a confession: I have not blogged about some really cool things I've experienced over the past few weeks, like running the Jerusalem Marathon (10k actually), spending an entire week in Turkey (thinking about blogging this gives me extreme feelings of anxiety), going to Bethlehem, stalking President Obama during his visit to Jerusalem, and snorkeling in the Red Sea. Also I didn't blog about finals/midterm week and don't plan to in an attempt to erase it from my memory. Here's my promise that you can hold me to: I will blog about these amazing experiences by the end of this week. I did, however, make an awesome video commemorating our Turkey trip and will post it when the internet is strong enough, meaning in just over a month when I'm back in the states. I can't believe how much time has flown!

Now for Palm Sunday. As you might know, Jesus Christ made His triumphal entry into Jerusalem on this same day just 17 years shy of 2000 years ago. The prophet Zechariah prophesied of Christ's entry into Jerusalem on a donkey in the Old Testament in Zechariah 9:9. Mark 11:1-11 tells of the fulfillment of this prophecy, just a few days before Christ's last supper, atonement, crucifixion, and finally resurrection that is celebrated next Sunday on Easter.
1  And when they came nigh to Jerusalem, unto Bethphage and Bethany, at the mount of Olives, he sendeth forth two of his disciples,2  And saith unto them, Go your way into the village over against you: and as soon as ye be entered into it, ye shall find a colt tied, whereon never man sat; loose him, and bring him.3  And if any man say unto you, Why do ye this? say ye that the Lord hath need of him; and straightway he will send him hither.4  And they went their way, and found the colt tied by the door without in a place where two ways met; and they loose him.5  And certain of them that stood there said unto them, What do ye, loosing the colt?6  And they said unto them even as Jesus had commanded: and they let them go.7  And they brought the colt to Jesus, and cast their garments on him; and he sat upon him.8  And many spread their garments in the way: and others cut down branches off the trees, and strawed them in the way.9  And they that went before, and they that followed, cried, saying, Hosanna; Blessed is he that cometh in the name of the Lord:10  Blessed be the kingdom of our father David, that cometh in the name of the Lord: Hosanna in the highest.11  And Jesus entered into Jerusalem, and into the temple: and when he had looked round about upon all things, and now the eventide was come, he went out unto Bethany with the twelve.
Being in Jerusalem during this holy week where so many important events took place and prophecies were fulfilled is absolutely incredible and was a big part of the reason I decided to come here. Last night, some friends and I Wikitraveled sites we needed to see in Jerusalem that we haven't yet. We came up with a list of random things with vague directions to get to each and headed out with it and a map, hoping to see some new things along with our already planned Palm Sunday celebrations. We started the day off early with a visit to St. Stephen's Basilica in East Jerusalem. St. Stephen was a martyr in the early Christian church. The church was beautiful and my favorite part was that a super friendly cat got inside and climbed onto my lap.

St. Stephen's Basilica
Anyone who knows me well knows that I love cats. I really hope she didn't have fleas. Speaking of stray cats, my favorite cat that hangs out at the JC is pregnant! (So obviously I had to sneak her extra chicken today)
This adorable little lady had something to say to us, and went on and on about it for a long time (especially to Hannah). Unfortunately, she was speaking to us in French despite our efforts to tell her we only speak English. We tried really hard to understand what she was getting at but to no avail. I really hope it wasn't important!
Next we went to the St. George Cathedral for a Palm Sunday ceremony and mass. We were taking pictures in the courtyard outside of the Cathedral when a woman walks up to us, excitedly welcomes us (especially when she found out we were American because she's from California and is serving at this cathedral in Jerusalem for 2 years), and shows us through some gardens to another courtyard behind the cathedral where the Palm Sunday ceremony took place. She handed us programs so we could follow along during the ceremony and we were surprised to find out that half of it took place in Arabic. Although we didn't understand everything, there were translations in the program for most things that happened during the ceremony that weren't already in English. During this ceremony, the priest blessed the palm and olive leaves which we then carried in a procession to the cathedral. This ceremony was really interesting and was pretty small- I felt that we got a really good grasp on what Palm Sunday means to other faiths from it. The procession walked into the cathedral where we got to sit near the front for mass. Mass was also half in Arabic and half in English . About half of the congregation sang the hymns in Arabic but the other half sang them in English and we were able to sing along. Sitting in this beautiful cathedral listening to mass in Jerusalem, where the Palm Sunday event actually happened, on Palm Sunday was surreal.

Palm and Olive leaves and branches that were blessed
Palm Sunday procession ceremony
St. George Cathedral
St. George Cathedral after mass, with a blessed palm leaf tied into a cross and a blessed olive branch
After mass, we decided to check two things off our list and went into the Old City to have "the best hummus in Jerusalem" at Lina's, followed by wandering the streets of the Old City trying to find a secret staircase leading to the rooftops of the Jewish Quarter. After an awesome run-in with some Israeli bagpipers performing in some hidden upstairs room we found (random I know, just like everything else in the Old City), we found the secret staircase in a residential area and explored the rooftops! The way the Old City is built blows my mind- houses, shops, synagogues, neighborhoods, churches, schools, and streets are all stacked on top of each other in a way that shows the city wasn't exactly planned out beforehand. We ran around on the rooftops for awhile, loving every second of this awesome discovery, but had to run off to catch the Palm Sunday walk in time.

Rooftops of the Old City
The Palm Sunday walk is where thousands and thousands of Pilgrims from all over the world gather to walk the road Christ rode a donkey into the city on during his "triumphal entry". Carrying palm fronds, everyone gathered at the Bethpage Church at the top of the Mount of Olives and proceeded on the road down the hill and through Zion's gate of the Old City. The procession was parade-like with lots of groups singing their own songs in their own language. A big group of us BYU students sang hymns for awhile, many of which nuns and other people next to us joined in on. People around us absolutely loved listening to us sing. The walk took a pretty long time because there were SO many people and the roads were pretty narrow. Some of the groups had drums, marching bands, etc. which were fun to listen to. I loved seeing so many diverse people gathered together to celebrate something we all believe in on such a happy occasion. This Palm Sunday walk is something everyone should add to their bucket list- walking on the same path the Savior did at the start of the most important week of history is unreal. It was especially meaningful to me because Christ was entering a city I have come to love so much.








The route ended at the Pools of Bethesda where there were live bands and a robed Catholic priest singing some Christian pop while people waved their palm fronds. It was really festival-like and just fun. Hannah and I made friends with a crazy lady from Texas who was trying to convince us the world was going to end, and also a group of girls from Mexico who go to boarding school in Rhode Island. All sorts of interesting people were around and I loved talking with them. Unfortunately, the JC has a rule that we can't be in East Jerusalem or the Old City past dark so we had to leave after awhile, and the one gate that led out was bottle-necked so once we finally got out we had to book it back. We ran through the streets of the Old City, which seemed to be a recurring theme for the day, and made it back just in time. Palm Sunday was phenomenal and exhausting and I am SO glad I was able to be here in Jerusalem for it!

Saturday, March 9, 2013

Tel Aviv- Take me back!


The weather forecast called for a chance of rain and clouds, but it couldn't have been more wrong. Our Tel Aviv day was filled with sweet sunshine and warm bliss. I didn't bring a swimsuit, not even considering there would be a chance I would go swimming in February but that was a mistake. It turns out the Mediterranean Sea is warm even in February and that there are some fabulous beaches in Tel Aviv. Needless to say, I went swimming regardless of the fact that I didn't bring a swimsuit (luckily my friend Jenny didn't want to use hers and let me borrow it). But we'll get to that later.
When we were first let off the bus next to the ocean, we ran down to the beach where I took my first steps in the Mediterranean. We spent time splashing around and taking pictures.

Then we went to this flea market with all sorts of cool garage sale kinds of things and a bought a bracelet.
Next we went to this really cool Russian Orthodox church called St. Peter's in Old Jaffa right on the water. Outside of this church were some vendors selling awesome jewelry and some nice shops and restaurants at Old Jaffa. It was beautiful and reminded me of something I'd see in Greece. We got some amazing nutella gelato and ate it as we walked along the coast!
View of Tel Aviv from Old Jaffa
St. Peter's
These are all hair clips a woman made and was selling at Old Jaffa
For the rest of the afternoon, most of the BYU kids met up at the beach and had an afternoon full of swimming, laying in the sun, and enjoying the beautiful day. The Mediterranean is super salty but also really surprisingly warm for the time of year. It was such a blissful day and the perfect way to wear off all the school-induced stress we'd been experiencing.



After spending a few hours at the beach, a group of us walked up the coast and explored it. We were going to rent bikes and then this carriage driver offered us a better option- a carriage ride with all 6 of us for 10 shekels each (10 skekels= about $2.50) haha so obviously we took this option. We felt slightly ridiculous riding on this horse-drawn carriage down the busy street of Tel Aviv, especially because we were definitely the only carriage around and everyone was waving at us. It was so fun though and was the best way to see the coast of Tel Aviv.


Our carriage driver was so nice and our horse's name was Billy
Tel Aviv has a very different feel from Jerusalem- it's much more laid back without the political tension you can feel in Jerusalem. People from Jerusalem view the people from Tel Aviv sort of as free-spirited hippies which I could definitely see. Everyone I talked to was super friendly and inviting and seemed extremely happy. The Jewish holiday Purim happened to be going on at the time we were in Tel Aviv which is like Halloween for them. People were wearing all sorts of funny costumes which were really fun to look at.
These guys were waving at us as we rode in the carriage
After our spectacular little carriage ride, we watched the sunset from the beach. There were lots of surfers out and people playing paddleball all over the beach.


Once it was dark, we headed a few streets into the city to the Carmel market before it closed. It's a long street filled with all sorts of food vendors and stands selling everything. A local told us we had to go there while we were in Tel Aviv so we did. It was such a fun place and was HUGE. It was kind of like Pike Place market in Seattle but less artsy and way bigger. We finished the day with dinner at a cute little restaurant just outside of the Carmel Market. Tel Aviv is a city that absolutely amazed me- one second you're at the beach with a bunch of surfer beach bums feeling like you're in California and the next second you're at this huge market that reminds you you're in the Middle East, then a few streets over it feels like you're in New York City with crowded streets and fancy stores. Not to mention Old Jaffa that feels like a quaint Mediterranean coastal town. This day was absolute bliss and is what I needed to keep myself sane before two weeks of crunch time for classes.
Carmel Market